The Keys

There are over 800 islands in the Florida Keys. Many are wildlife sanctuaries owned by the state and federal government: about 30 are inhabited by people. The land belonged to the Spanish until 1821 when it was sold to a businessman from Mobile, Alabama for $2,000. Key West was founded in 1822 and by the 1850's grew to about 2,700 people most of whom worked as "wreckers" salvaging millions of dollars of cargo from ships that ran aground on the reefs. Cargo included everything from gold, silver, china, tea, lumber, cotton, laces, silk, rums, fine wines, to elegant furniture. By 1830 Key West was the richest city per ca pita in the entire United States and was so for about 50 years. In 1856 alone, the 2,000 residents split almost $400,000 in booty. That would equal $7,000,000 in today's dollars.

In 1869 refugees from the Cuban civil war began to arrive, Among them was Vicente Martinez Ybor, a major Cuban cigar manufacturer. Soon the city became the world's leading cigar manufacturing center with 166 factories producing 100 million cigars each year; all hand rolled!

The next industry to arrive was sponging. Sponges from Key West soon became known as superior to sponges from elsewhere. This industry once grossed $750,000 (in 1800 dollars). A red tide killed all of the sponge beds and destroyed this industry.

In 1905 railroad magnate Henry Flagler extended his railroad from Miami to Key West. It took him 7 years to complete the line in 1912, and then he promptly died. In September of 1935 a hurricane struck packing 200 mph winds, which washed out the tracks and killed 800 people.

The Overseas highway was built directly on the old railroad bed and opened in 1938. You can actually see some of the old railroad bridges when you drive this highway.

During the Great Depression the population dropped from 23,000 to 11,000: 80% of which were on public assistance. By 1933 Key West was unable to pay the salaries of city employees and went bankrupt. The richest city in the salvage days was now the poorest city in 1933.

In 1933 the federal emergency relief act announced that it would transform Key West into a tourist mecca. They built an aquarium as the first tourist attraction. We visited the aquarium where you could actually hold some of the animals. McLeod and Erik are holding a type of "pincher-less" crab. These guys burrow into the sand and look exactly like stingrays. Sometimes the beaches are littered with these guys as they come ashore to mate. People who are unfamiliar with them think they are stingrays and terrified to walk the beaches.

We began our time in the Keys at "Fiesta Key" which is about 35 miles South of Key Largo (the first and closest key to Miami and the "mainland"). Fiesta Key is a small island all of which is taken up by a KOA campground. Our site was the best one on the Key: at the end of a point with this view of the sunset. We were told that people usually reserve this spot up to 1-year in advance. The sea wall had lobster that burrowed their homes underneath and came out in the evening to feed. As I looked over the sea wall shortly after arriving a 2.5 foot skate swam by and the fish-life was like looking into a tropical fish tank.
Shortly before the sunset this Ramada filled up with people, wine glass in hand, all coming out to view the sun setting over the horizon. RV parks in the Keys are a little different than other places we have visited. Here there was a store, pool, swimming beach, boat launch, marina, boat rentals and fishing charters, a full service bar and restaurant. The property was amazing and I could not see how it could support an RV park. The next day I learned that the entire island had been sold to developers for $22 million. Condos are going in starting at $2 million each. I guess this is the last time we will be able to visit Fiesta Key.Farther down the road we settled into another KOA campground on Sugarloaf Key. This key is about 15 miles from Key West, the end of the line. It too was spectacular, with sandy beaches, full service marina, restaurant, bar, pool, and live music several times each week. These are really resorts where you stay in your own RV. I have to admit, although RVs are packed in here, at $80-95 per night it was worth it, and we stayed for almost 2-weeks.