Zion National Park

When traveling from point A to point B I usually plot the most direct and scenic route. This is what I did in planning our drive from Bryce to Zion. The distance was only 150 miles and looked to be a very easy day, so we did not worry about getting an early start. Sometimes the best laid plans are waylaid. In less than half of the planned distance traveled, we turned west following the road signs to Zion. Another 10 miles up the road a sign with blinking yellow warning lights instructed all "over-sized" vehicles to report into the Ranger station for an escort. Further down the road, signs indicated that vehicles over 13 feet 1 inch are not allowed to travel into Zion National Park via this direction due to a low tunnel (Edna is about 13 feet high: too close for my comfort): so we turned around. This is not the only place on our travels where we have encountered such signs after driving miles up a given road. This has caused much debate between Paton family members, and we still have not been able to conclude why someone would do such a thing. They obviously know there are height or width restrictions, since they posted the signs. So, why did they not post the signs before you turned off the last road that you must detour back to in order to continue on your journey with your oversized vehicle? I'm still confused!

The majesty of these mountains are very difficult to capture in photographs. Our first day in Zion we hiked 3 trails for a total of about 6 miles before heading to the "Narrows". The Narrows are the most famous hike in Zion where you hike up the middle of a river that travels through narrow "slot" canyons with walls up to 1500 feet high.

While heading up the trail to the river we encountered many people, who had already hiked the river, wearing dry pants and special river shoes. Upon inquiring, we came to the conclusion that we were ill prepared for this hike (also, Erik was showing signs of weariness), so we decided to make better preparations and do the hike the following day.

The best laid plans...And the heavens opened up, and it rained cats and dogs...
It's imperative that you plan this hike. The river travels through narrow slot canyons and rain creates flash floods; sometimes increasing the river depth by over 6 feet. People have died here!
To put this into perspective, last nights heavy rainfall resulted in the river flow increasing from 50 CFS (cubic feet per second) to 240 CFS: rendering the river almost impassable (certainly for people of only 4 feet in height; like Erik and Jeanne). We suspended our hike and hit the books.

The river was still swollen 2 days following the deluge (and so muddy you could not see the rocks you would be stepping on or around). I was experiencing Edna fever, and wanted to hike some of the "strenuous" trails which other family members were not excited about: so off I ventured to conquer Angels Landing.
This hike is only 5 miles RT but it gains over 1500 feet in elevation. As such it is classified as "Strenuous" and stair stepper difficult. It was definitely a good cardiovascular work out. The cautions indicate: "If you are extremely afraid of heights, you may want to think carefully before proceeding..." These pictures (above) are taken from the top of the mountains. The edge behind me is a 1500 foot sheer cliff: certain death! In order to get up to this point there are places where the ridge is only 3 feet wide; with 1500 foot drop-offs on each side. Chains have been installed to aid your ascent. Without these handholds there would most certainly be more fatalities. Definitely not for the weak of heart. More than half of the people on this hike turned around before reaching this point. It was great; but I'm glad I did not bring the kids on this one.

The following day the river had receded enough for us to hike the Narrows. We headed to the local rental company (Zion Adventure Co.) http://www.zionadventures.com/ to rent our dry pants, dry suits for the kids, river shoes with booties, and walking sticks.

The famous and most beautiful section of this hike is 3 to 3.5 miles upstream. You are in the river 65% of the time. The water temperature this time of year is 50 degrees, and the depth ranges from calf high to my waist.

I knew we were in trouble shortly after we began when Erik started complaining about the circulation in his hands. Dry suits have tight rubber seals at each extremity to keep the water out. I was envisioning a failed attempt! Encouraging my little buddy, telling him to buck up, it will all be worth it, I promise, we trudged onward upstream.

Shortly thereafter McLeod (who was looking forward to this hike very much) exclaimed..."Dad, I thought this would be a lot cooler than it is..." Erik's next words out of his mouth are: "Dad, I'm not having any fun AT ALL!" Now I'm thinking mutiny.More encouraging words from Dad, a little pleading, some gentle blackmail...on we trudge upstream.

The canyon has started to change. The walls begin to narrow to about 30 feet and it's 1500 feet to the top. I've seen pictures of this place, but as it is often said "pictures do not do it justice".

Once again, I forget how important blood sugar is to my kids. We stop for a bite to eat and some water. Erik has renewed energy; and I am very proud of both of my kids; they are not complaining although it is obvious both of them would rather be somewhere else right now.

I look around and Erik is gone. "McLeod, where is your brother?" I yell. "He headed off upstream..." Off I stumble at a neck breaking pace (equivalent to a baby walk) looking for the little @#&*

Around 2 corners I finally get a glimpse of a small yellow shape heading upstream and yell "Erik!". He finally sees my frantic waving and waits the 10 minutes for me to catch up. This is the section of the Narrows that is called "Wall Street" it is the most spectacular section and truly picturesque. After another one half mile we decide it's time to head back. The kids are excited and McLeod lunges into the water and begins to float downstream. Shortly thereafter Erik joins her and both of them are floating down the Virgin river. Other hikers we meet along the way break into fits of laughter as they see these inflated yellow shapes pass them by.

The trip downstream takes far less time then the trudge up, and now the kids are having a ball. As we reach our starting point both kids say they don't want it to stop. McLeod tells me that "I would not trade this experience for anything, it is the funnest time I have ever had." Erik says "This is the best time ever!"

Well I'll be!

If you go, plan on 5+ days depending on how much of a hiker you are. There are several overnight hikes that I would love to take in this park. This is definitely not a place for couch potatoes (although most visitors rarely leave the paved roads or partake in a hike exceeding 1 mile). If I were planning a trip here I would contact a back country tour company and book an overnight trip of the narrows.

The Paton's